From NGO volunteer to “Coacao” entrepreneur: the story of Gaetano Servidio from Calabria and five Ecuadorian associations of growers and producers of fine cocoa varieties.
“If I had to end my adventure here, I am happy with what I have done in these years in Ecuador.
Five Ecuadorian associations of growers and producers of fine cocoa are now identities living in an organized form.
They no longer negotiate on their knees with intermediaries and live with dignity from their work . This is what we wanted: to produce the best nectar of the gods, reflecting the sustainable supply chain with traditional techniques and respect for the environment”.
While he speaks, Gaetano Servidio has bright eyes: this smiling man from Bonifati (Cs), who arrived in Ecuador 13 years ago for an international cooperation project for the development of an NGO, certainly did not think of becoming a cocoa entrepreneur in his life.
But you know: the roads are unpredictable and life rewards those who know how to dream, hope, believe.
If you are perhaps thinking of any undertaking, well you will be happily surprised.
So you will marvel at his life in Ecuador.
And, last but not least , you will dream for his Italian love met in Quito: Simona De Filippis , who became his wife, “so patient for my long absences but proud of me to understand that in life I am really a lucky boy”.
What do you say … shall we leave?
“Six years ago I had just finished an international development cooperation lesson. After greeting my students, I was about to leave the classroom when I find myself in front of a group of cocoa farmers . They had traveled a whole night to reach Quito from the coastal area: just to come and talk to me”, recalls Gaetano.
He gets excited thinking about it: it all started from there.
He recognized them one by one. In 2012 they were beneficiaries of Acea onlus projects : Gaetano was project leader and country manager, dealing with rural development of cocoa.
With simplicity of words and heart, this delegation of local farmers asks him for help to break free from old logic and produce the “nectar of” gods with dignity . They also tell him that they don’t know how to pay him, but that they really want to learn.
“I can only help you on the weekend. Let’s make this help become a business, something concrete. First, however, we must become human value . So I started an intangible work of enhancing human talent, with courses on weekends to be able to create associative identities”.
Every Thursday Gaetano leaves Quito to reach Esmeraldas , one of the 24 provinces of Ecuador. Here he initiated the project to produce native Ecuadorian varieties of the food of the gods.
Thus, in June 2015 Gaetano’s company was born: Coacao , acronym of “Cooperative associated with cocoa of Ecuador”. It acts as an umbrella for the five associations of the entire province of Esmeraldas, with three integrated ethnic groups of farmers from Ecuador.
- Afro-Ecuadorian;
- chachi;
- montubios.
- Meanwhile, other groups are joining.
“They were individual producers who worked below cost, for intermediaries. For 3 years we have been doing lessons, courses, without moving a grain of cocoa . It was necessary to understand the human value, before the material one. Understanding the possibility of becoming an identity in order to have the necessary security”, explains Gaetano.
The first step was the establishment of the Coacao business which, from north to south of Esmeraldas, includes five associations. In the coming months, these will form a consortium, while the company – which acts as their umbrella – will have its own brand which will be called “Servidio”.
What has changed in these 3 years? I ask Gaetano, while the evening falls here and in Quito the buildings are covered by a mantle of light.
“They were producers in extreme poverty . They had never worked in an organized way. We continue to program, to study, because improvisation creates voids. In fact, in recent years we have passed, with many sacrifices marked by laughter and friendships, to productive development”, he replies.
The stages of the artisanal processing of quality cocoa
For some years now, Gaetano’s weekends have been different.
They have a taste for adventure and hope. Seasoned with the patience and love of Simona, his wife, who puts aside any apprehension to support this dream of her husband.
Which is the dream, which has come true, of many families in Esmeraldas.
“The processing phase blends with the experience of the Coacao growers and producers. A high quality raw material because it follows all the steps, respecting the traditional processing techniques and the fruit. This means, therefore, preserving the local chocolate varieties we export, Fino di Aroma and Criollo”.
It all begins on the plantations. The cocoa trees give their fruits: the cabosse . They are shaped like wrinkled lemons with a resistant shell.
Those who know this crop well know when the harvest time has come.
“The opening of the cabosse is extraordinary. When we see the cocoa beans kept inside them, the emotion of months becomes concrete. Each phase is followed with delicacy and respect for the plant”, says Gaetano.
Then there is the whole post-harvest phase , which includes the fermentation and drying of the cocoa beans. Important steps that cover a period of time ranging from 10 to 15 days. To continue with storage and transport.
The export of coacao and the italian partners Cioccolato Maglio
“An Italian company believed in us: it is the Apulian Cioccolato Maglio . Maurizio and Vincenzo Maglio believed in this virtuous and sustainable process that we are carrying out. In fact, they help us in the development of high quality products, using cocoa that comes from the sustainable niche supply chain ».
And here this Lecce company, from the heart of Salento, welcomes the seeds of happiness directly from Ecuador.
The memories go to the first export of Coacao and to all the emotion in the eyes of those who treated and collected those cocoa fruits carefully. With gratitude.
“In 2018 with the first shipment, we exported 10 tons of fine and high quality cocoa to Italy. Covid has slowed things down a bit this year, but we hope to make two more exports by December. To then start in January with one export per month”.
How can this be done? Luck, says this Calabrian entrepreneur, is precisely the territorial coverage from north to south of Esmeraldas. The period that produces the most compensates for the period in which it produces the least.
When the niche supply chain makes a difference in value
Gaetano explains to me that 98% of the 300,000 tons of cocoa exported per year from Ecuador is ordinary cocoa.
Basically, the fruit that will give endorphins and happiness to those who bite into a piece of chocolate does not respect the parameters of a high quality process. Nor, often, of the dignity of workers, often paid for a few dollars.
“We represent that part of the niche , that percentage that focuses on tradition, artisanal harvesting, equity and sustainability. Aspects that embrace every dimension, first of all the human one”.
The goal now is to enter the European market, with a high quality cocoa and variegated, particular aromas.
“So, we try to reach consumers who appreciate and eat 90% pure chocolate. With an enveloping flavor and a story, indeed many stories to tell”.
Among the next projects there is one that concerns women, always to protect human value: “We want to open a second cycle that focuses on female entrepreneurship. Not only cocoa, but also recyclable products”.
Written by: Alessia Antonucci
Visit the original article at: www.ottenove.it
